I have been surfing for my whole life. I love it and I don’t know that I can get much better now, I have peaked, which bothers me but I have to accept it.
I love dogs. I grew up with dogs in my family from the time that I was a little boy; we always had German Shepherds and Labradors. I get on very well with dogs, they trust me.
I have an airplane hangar with 17 cars in it. That’s no joke. I have a ‘half pipe’ in there, too – you know, like a big ramp, where I skateboard. It’s awesome. It’s the ultimate fantasy.
I’m a doer, and whether it was the tsunami in Sri Lanka or the earthquake in Indonesia, I was always saying, I should be there; I should be helping out.
Sometimes I live in fear. But when I have to take chances about people I love, relationships, my daughter and immediate family, those decisions are easy.
