I have been surfing for my whole life. I love it and I don’t know that I can get much better now, I have peaked, which bothers me but I have to accept it.
I feel I have lived my whole life, day to day, without planning anything and I like it that way. Things change so fast, one minute you are here, the next minute you are on a plane, it’s great fun.
I have an airplane hangar with 17 cars in it. That’s no joke. I have a ‘half pipe’ in there, too – you know, like a big ramp, where I skateboard. It’s awesome. It’s the ultimate fantasy.
I never thought I was going to be an actor. And I never really thought of myself as one. Even though I keep working. I thought I’d just do a wave of movies, and then I’d burn out. They just kept coming together.
