It’s hard for me to describe the joy I felt after I stood up and rode wave in for the first time after the attack. I was incredibly thankful and happy inside. The tiny bit of doubt that would sometimes tell me you’ll never surf again was gone in one wave.
BETHANY HAMILTONSurfing is very special and unique. It’s really hard to explain unless you’ve tried it. It’s being out in the ocean in the sun, the water on your skin, and the adrenalin rush when you catch a wave. You have to be creative so it’s like an art form in a way.
More Bethany Hamilton Quotes
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I enjoy hanging out with friends, going on hikes and playing tennis. I also enjoy Bible study and making dinners. I have a pretty mellow life away from the water.
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We all need that extra friend outside of our immediate family to talk about that extra stuff you wouldn’t normally talk to your parents about.
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Your looks do not define who you are.
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Compassion can drive us to do amazing things and give us perspective.
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I’m a surfer at heart. Both my parents moved to Hawaii in the 1970s, where they met and became Christians. Then they taught me and my two brothers how to love the Lord – and how to surf!
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I don’t know how long I’ll be competing but I’ll always be surfing. I’ll be surfing until I’m old.
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To lose your everyday life of surfing and being creative on waves, enjoying the ocean – that’s scary to me. It was essential to at least try surfing again and get out there and see how it went.
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Being out there in the ocean, God’s creation, it’s like a gift He has given us to enjoy.
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There’s no such thing as a handicap – it’s all in your head
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My only real fear was that I would not be able to surf again because I was concerned that I would not physically be able to do it. I knew that if I wasn’t able to surf then my life would really change.
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I don’t really want people looking to me for inspiration. I just want to be a sign along the way that points toward Heaven.
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Being able to turn to Jesus after the shark attack kept me alive.
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People can do whatever they want if they just set their heart to it, and just never give up, and just go out there and do it.
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I’m just waiting for God to tell me what to do, but whatever it is, I want to be doing something like I am doing now-serving God and helping people.
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I gave my heart to Jesus when I was five-years-old and since then it’s been a special relationship. To me it’s not a religion; it’s just talking to God, reading his word, and doing my best to honor him in everything I do.
BETHANY HAMILTON